It is now forbidden to wash your car, neither in your garden nor in a car wash. Decision of the Mayenne prefecture last week, because the Mayenne (France) water points are low. Station bosses plan to lose a lot of treasury.
It is now forbidden to wash your car, neither in your garden nor in a car wash. Decision of the Mayenne prefecture last week, because the Mayenne water points are low. Station bosses plan to lose a lot of cash. This concerns the 3 territories of Mayenne and Oudon placed in red on the map of the prefecture but not the areas of Sarthe upstream and downstream as well as Mayenne upstream west yet on heightened alert.
Motorists were a little surprised when they arrived at the Mayenne cleaning stations. “I don’t have a garden at home, I have no choice but to come here to wash my car, even if it means risking a fine,” laments Kelly, in one of the Laval car washes. “I wasn’t even aware of it, and since it’s still open, I thought it was good,” explains Jean, just before turning around, for fear of being checked.
Some washing stations in Mayenne have therefore decided to completely stop their activity. Others remain open because emergency vehicles, taxis or even funeral directors have the right to clean the bodywork and the windshield for sanitary reasons. Individuals risk up to 1,500 euros in fines in the event of non-compliance with the rules.
“Cleaning at home consumes much more than our stations”
A decision of the prefecture of Mayenne which angers the managers of the washing stations. For them, their activity consumes very little water. “We are water users and not consumers”, analyzes the boss of the Blue Elephant in Saint-Berthevin. “The water used to clean the cars is stored, then filtered to return to our circuits. What bothers the prefecture is the somewhat long delay for the water to return,” he continues.
Another fear is that customers wash their cars at home in secret. “A station wash is 50 to 70 liters, at home with the hose it’s 250 to 300 liters of water. Ecologically it’s not great”, explains Ludovic Fraboulet, the manager of Mouss ‘Auto in Laval. , forced to completely close its activity. “And if we add to that the particles of petrol and oil that fall into the garden, it pollutes the soil even more”.
For the moment, no date of resumption of activity is envisaged by the prefecture of Mayenne because it depends on the rainfall to come in the department. But if the decree lasts until next October, some like Ludovic Fraboulet will be forced to go out of business.
The car roof is adorned with paw prints of martens and the neighbour’s cat. And the pollen has left streaks on the windows: high time for a car wash. Experts provide tips for proper care and explain why shine sprays are dangerous and what helps against animal hair on car seats.
There is no federal regulation for car washing in front of the front door. In some communities, hand washing on unpaved ground is prohibited because the washing process could release chemicals, fuel and lubricant residues into the groundwater. But there can also be problems with a car wash on solid ground: Permission must first be obtained from the responsible authorities. If you want to save yourself the bureaucracy, you should either head for so-called self-service wash boxes, where you still have to wash the car yourself. Or the driver drives to a car wash or car wash. According to the ADAC, the cleaning effect is the same for both.
Check washing quality
As practical as a car wash or car wash is, drivers should pay attention to the cleanliness of the brushes. The best way to do this is to take a closer look at the ends of the nylon threads: If they are frayed or brittle, dirt can get caught in them more easily. Then such brushes act like emery paper and cause small scratches in the paintwork during washing. However, this risk also exists with car washes or car washes that clean cars with cloths instead of brushes. Also, neither the price nor the washing time are quality features for car wash systems or lines. It is therefore worth taking a look at cars that are already running before you wash them to see how good the quality is.
If drivers break something in the car wash, they have to take responsibility for it. It happens again and again that customers step on the brakes during the washing process or drive the car wrong into the facility. Some also fail to remove the antenna, which can break off and cause damage. However, the liability rules are less strict than in road traffic. The following applies here: It only costs money if the owner of the system can prove that the customer is at fault (Cologne District Court, Az. 272 C 33/12).
Conversely, damage can also occur during washing. It is therefore important to take a close look at the vehicle afterwards – whether the paintwork has not been damaged. In this case, you should report the damage to the operator of the facility before leaving the property, advises the ADAC. However, the customer must prove that the damage occurred in the car wash. If it is clear that the damage was caused in the car wash, the car wash operator is generally liable for damages. However, he can exonerate himself if he can prove that the customer has not used the system correctly. Plant operators often try to avoid liability by referring to the general terms and conditions. However, not every clause is admissible.
Select washing program
For heavily soiled vehicles, an individual pre-wash is advisable. Dirt that has dried on must be soaked before the actual wash cycle. there is a risk that the rollers will scratch the paintwork. Systems with manual pre- and post-treatment, for example with a steam jet, deliver particularly good results. However, caution is advised when pre-washing near the tires, experts from Dekra warn. Because tests have shown that a sharp jet of water at close range could endanger the rubber of the tires. Dekra experts recommend keeping a distance of at least 20 cm with the high-pressure cleaner and using a wider water jet by angling it.
It doesn’t have to be the most expensive program either. According to ADAC, if you want to save costs, you should choose a simple foam wash. If it is heavily soiled, it makes sense to wash it twice. Most car washes offer preservation with hot wax, which is sprayed onto the vehicle before it dries. According to ADAC, however, such wax treatments do not last long. It is better and also more economical to polish the paintwork yourself with hard wax after washing. Washing the underbody is mainly important in the winter months: According to the Fraunhofer Institute for Paint Technology in Bremen, road salt can clog the underbody and engine parts. If the salt accumulates in a sheet metal seam, it can lead to corrosion in combination with moisture.
The brushes and cloths of a car wash only get into all the cracks and joints to a limited extent. Therefore, vehicle owners should clean the entrances, hinges of the trunk lid and the mirrors by hand after machine cleaning. To do this, put some car shampoo in a bucket of water and clean with the sponge. Then wipe with the kitchen sponge cloth. Then clean the wiper blades with a damp cloth and dry well, recommend the experts at the German Motor Vehicle Trade Association (ZDK). It is also important to open all doors, the bonnet and the trunk and to dry the car with a cloth.
Pet hair on car seats is stubborn. According to Tüv Süd, they can only be removed from the upholstery with a lint brush or a powerful vacuum cleaner. The suction power of vacuum cleaners in car washes is usually stronger than those in your own household. Chewing gum residues are also annoying: These can be easily removed if they are sprayed with cold spray from the pharmacy beforehand. The panes can be cleaned inside and out with conventional glass cleaner. Dirty plastic parts are best wiped off with a damp microfiber cloth. According to TÜV Süd, household cleaning agents and dishwashing detergents are taboo. You should generally avoid using shine sprays. They make plastic surfaces shine like new, but make them slippery. This can have fatal consequences on the steering wheel or on the pedals. Be careful with detergents that contain plasticizers. They can attack the predetermined breaking points of airbags and make them porous. Special care products for upholstery, leather and plastic are available from specialist retailers.
Save engine wash
According to TÜV Süd, washing the engine with your own high-pressure cleaner is not a good idea. The electronics in the vehicle in particular can easily be damaged in this way. In addition, washing the engine on the street or on one’s own property is prohibited, as this can allow oil to get into the groundwater and sewage system. This also applies to washing the outside of the car. If you like to wash your car yourself, you should go to a car wash. There, the dirt is separated before the water enters the sewage system.
Remove animal tracks
If there is bird droppings on the paint, it should be removed as soon as possible – preferably with water. If that is not enough, the ADAC recommends soaking the dirt in warm water and a little washing-up liquid before wiping it off. By the way, this also helps against dead mosquitoes on the windshield. Only with honeydew, the secretion of aphids, is it not enough to wipe away. Here, the ADAC recommends soaking the dirt for a little longer – and first putting a damp cloth or a damp kitchen towel on the dirty areas. If you want to wipe away cat or marten tracks, you should use a fine cloth. Because if you rub too hard, you risk rubbing fine stones into the paint – and that causes scratches.
With large investments, such as are often necessary for agricultural machinery, value retention is a major issue. Dedication, employee protection and occupational safety should not be forgotten in this context. Effective cleaning helps to meet all these requirements and avoid costs for breakdowns and repairs.
Tractors are key machines on farms. Cleaning the tractor should be done as needed to ensure operational readiness and to uncover damage hidden under dust and dirt.
Machine care with the high-pressure cleaner: cold or hot water?
Over the years, the high-pressure cleaner has prevailed for cleaning the outside of agricultural machinery. All major dirt can be removed quickly and effectively. If you use a cold water high-pressure cleaner, a suitable cleaning agent can be used to help you achieve a good result quickly.
Hot water high-pressure cleaners work more effectively: The high temperature increases the cleaning performance. Better results are achieved in less time, reducing water consumption compared to cold water pressure washers. In addition, the drying time and thus the amount of work are reduced (up to 40 percent). With this method, oils and greasy residues dissolve better.
This is what matters when it comes to exterior and cabin cleaning
For all work, the pressure and water volume depend on the object and the degree of soiling. The distance should be about 20 to 30 centimeters from the surface in order to achieve the greatest possible cleaning effect and at the same time to avoid damage.
Cabin cleaning is often neglected, especially during the season. But it should also be cleaned regularly. Small dirt particles in the cabin space are removed regularly and thoroughly with a vacuum cleaner. Alternatively, this can also be done with a broom or hand brush.
This avoids damage to the electrics, electronics and hydraulics as well as costly repairs caused by dust, dirt and moisture. Don’t forget: clean the cabin filter to prevent the spread of mold spores or mycotoxins.
Cleaning windows: Ensure a clear view
Clean discs ensure higher work quality and more efficient work. If the discs are not clean, this can result in the working width of the attachment being misjudged.
In addition, poor visibility increases the likelihood of damage or accidents in the yard, on the road or in the field in many cases.
How often does the agricultural machine have to be cleaned?
You don’t think you can earn money with machine cleaning during the season. However, costs can be saved by avoiding unnecessary repairs and working safely and efficiently.
The following recommendation for cleaning work therefore applies:
External cleaning: Always after hard periods of use (e.g. sowing or harvesting) or when a machine is to be used on another farm. The frequency can vary. One measure at the end of the season is often sufficient for soil cultivation and sowing technology. Crop protection equipment, fertilizer spreaders and liquid manure tanks that come into contact with very corrosive substances should be cleaned after each phase of use.
Interior cleaning: Cabins including windows are to be cleaned as often as possible – even during the season. If necessary, daily.
After the season, plant protection equipment should be cleaned and stored away from frost. Read our five tips for cleaning and storing field sprayers.
Five steps to a clean machine
Cleaning the preparation and cabin: Position the working device in a suitable cleaning area. Dry clean the cab interior – including windows and cab air filters, screens and pre-filters.
Rough cleaning and soaking time: First remove coarse dirt mechanically or with the compressor. Then open the flaps of drives, cooler packages, etc. and moisten all components with water so that the dirt is soaked and can be removed. If necessary, detergents can be used.
Cleaning with hot water: Before you reach for the high-pressure cleaner and start Kärcher, put on protective equipment. Sensitive components may only be treated gently or indirectly. Finally, check all covers and maintenance flaps. If you discover dirt spots: rinse.
Drying time: To reduce the time, residual water can be vacuumed off or blown away. Check the clean machine for damage.
Care measures: Work through the manufacturer’s maintenance plan, process maintenance points according to the operating instructions, e.g. grease. Preservatives are applied where necessary.
In the future, the robot will replace divers when performing the glass cleaning work at the Aquatika Aquarium in Karlovac, after the aquarium management purchased a robot that will improve, speed up and simplify the cleaning process and thus reduce costs.
The new equipment, worth 35,000 kuna, was presented last Wednesday by Aquatika director Margarita Maruškić Kulaš, who explained that paid divers are expensive, dangerous and slow, so she expressed satisfaction with the purchase of the robot, which she believes will also generate interest among visitors. .
A call for suggestions for naming the robot diver will be published on social media shortly.
Until now, aquarist Marin Jarniak has been diving with oxygen tanks and cleaning the inside of the glass, which has been an added attraction at Aquatica.
Now he will have to rarely and most of the time the pool will be cleaned remotely by controlling a robot hoover.
“Most futurologists predict that in 20 years’ time we will live in smart cities and smart flats, which will be controlled by artificial intelligence and which will adapt the living space to the desires and habits of the household, while the routine work will be done by robots and humans will do more complex and creative work, Aquatica is following this path,” concluded Maruškić Kulaš.
SerClean , a start-up commercial laundromat based here, provides the local hospitality industry with high-quality, customer-focused laundry services.
In its first year of operation, SerClean doubled the number of customers, from 16 to 30, and increased laundry production to more than 20,000 pounds per day.
Beginning with a small number of washers, dryers and small ironers, the laundry followed a step-by-step growth, adding Girbau industrial equipment and automation tools based on demand.
A group of friends pooled their talents to open SerClean in 2020.
They include Pablo Cano Ponte and Jessica Montaño, who have 20 years of laundry experience and currently own a hotel laundry in Argentina; Micaela Varela and Sebastian Romero, who have worked in hospitality for years and have business development experience; and Facundo Yebne, who also worked in hospitality for years and owns a property management company in Miami.
“Together, we decided to develop a new hotel laundry concept that is customer-focused and provides premium service,” Varela says. “We guarantee superior quality and service, and for that reason we are investing in GI technology.”
STEP 1 – IRONING MACHINE AND FOLDER
To gain a foothold, the group purchased an existing laundry room already equipped with four washers and dryers and two ironing machines.
But a GI (32-inch) PC80 twin-roll ironing machine and FRB folding machine were quickly added in Phase 1 to achieve high quality finishes, folds and stacks of linens and table linens.
Once on the floor, the existing ironers were removed. The PC80 and FRB Folder natural gas ironers immediately launched ironing production at 200 to 600 pounds per hour.
“The quality of the GI ironing machine is incredible,” Varela says. “It’s much faster than other ironers and offers very high quality.”
Delivering a flawless finish at high speeds while maintaining up to 93% energy efficiency, the PC80 standalone ironer features highly flexible touch controls with customizable programmability for different types of items, from pillowcases and stretch sheets to comforters and table linens.
Wet laundry is fed directly into the ironing machine, where it is automatically ironed and then folded with the FRB Folder according to pre-programmed parameters. This ensures consistent folds and stacks for a high-quality presentation.
“Over 6,000 pounds of laundry go through the ironing/folding machine a day,” Varela shares. “These are great machines.”
STEP 2 – WASHING/DRYING AND AUTOMATED DRYING
Four months after installing the ironing and folding machine, with SerClean still showing significant growth, the company installed additional wash/dry capacity with two 255-pound GI tilt washers and a 140-pound ST1302 dryer.
Easily programmable padded washers provide automatic tilting for easy loading and unloading and achieve 381 G-force extraction speeds. They remove more moisture from laundry thanks to high-speed extraction, which reduces drying time, improves wash quality and helps extend the life of laundry.
The ST1302 dehumidifier features vacuum loading and automated Spirotilt convenient unloading. It efficiently dries 140 pounds of laundry in less than 15 minutes.
SerClean rents out hotel laundry and also handles customer-owned items. They pride themselves on providing customized services to meet each customer’s needs.
“We never mix our clients’ linens,” Varela says. “We work with one customer at a time and provide daily shipping and delivery.”
While washers and dryers have helped increase linen production, the FT MAXI dry-erase folder provides perfect and quick folding and stacking of fully dried items – cutting with one hand, overtime by 30 percent.
“The FT MAXI is a game-changer compared to manual folding,” Varela says. “It allows the towel department employees to do other tasks in the laundry room.”
While it takes one person an hour to manually fold 200 towels, the FT Maxi automatically classifies, folds and stacks up to 700 towels per hour. It also handles everything from pillowcases and washcloths to bath mats and blankets.
This eliminates manual pre-sorting and allows a single operator to quickly feed pieces of various sizes one by one. Items are then automatically stacked and unloaded onto a conveyor belt for distribution.
WAITING FOR STAGE 3.
As a result of Phases 1 and 2, SerClean is keeping up with the demand for laundry services by demonstrating industry-leading quality. Plans for Stage 3 include putting in a new facility to accommodate even more washing and ironing capacity.
“We are constantly growing and will continue to invest in GI machines,” Varela says. “We handle at least 800 pounds of laundry a day for each of our hospitality clients, and we continue to grow every day.”
This photo, taken in 1924, shows the hot novelty of the time, a new type of car wash that opened in Chicago, at the corner of 42nd Street and South Michigan Avenue.
It is known that there were at least two such car washes in Chicago in the 1920s. However, the first of these designs appeared in St. Paul, Minnesota. The patent for “auto-baths” was received in 1921 by S.P. Boland, the inventor of this design. It was he who opened the first two “car pools” in St. Paul. Boland advertised them as the most convenient way to clean dirt off the bottom of a car. In those days, when automobile traffic was just beginning to turn around, most roads were unpaved, and perpetual mud was a serious problem for motorists. It clung to the bottoms and wheels of cars. But car pools, Boland promised, would solve this problem.
The car pool was a concrete bowl about 30 meters in diameter and up to 40 centimeters deep. The customer paid 25 cents for a wash. After the payment the attendant would cover the radiator with a special rubber cover, and then the driver would go down the special ramp into the bowl and start circling around the bowl at about 15 km/h. The car was bouncing on the unevenness of the concrete, the bowl walls were vibrating, water was agitating – all this helped to effectively wash away the dirt from the bottom of the car, chassis and wheels. The entire washing process took only three to four minutes. Those who wanted to wash the entire car would drive into the special booths where the attendants completed the wash. The procedure was popular: on Saturdays up to 75 cars per hour would go through the “car pool”.
After the success of the idea in St. Paul, Boland began to promote his invention in other cities, offering those wishing to purchase a franchise. The first franchisee in Chicago was S. J. Burkhartmeyer, who built the city’s first car pool on the north side of the city, at the corner of Diversey and Elston streets. He purchased the franchise in 1924, and it cost him about $20,000 to build the car wash and service. The architect who created Chicago’s first car pool was William S. Presto, who later built many magnificent buildings in the city.
Alas, car pools did not last long, and with the advent of paved roads quickly faded into history. One of Chicago’s car wash bowls was already purchased in 1926 by a local developer to build a house. The other existed until the early 1930s, but then also went into oblivion.
When taking a dirty car to a car wash, we’re almost always confident of a relatively successful result, but it’s best to monitor the process, otherwise there could be unpleasant consequences for the bodywork and on-board electronics. So what should you look out for?
Washing heavily soiled vehicles
Firstly, try to get your car washed at least once a week. The notion that a layer of dirt protects the paintwork from sand, salt and abrasive particles is actually a myth. The more dirt adheres to your car, the more difficult it will be to remove without affecting the paintwork.
We’re not even talking about the effects of wearing a road reagent ‘suit’ on your bodywork. If you’ve been driving on asphalt covered in chemical sludge, welcome to the car wash! Definitely, if your car is thoroughly polluted, avoid automatic car washes. Contact with brushes, especially for strongly soiled car, is destructive. At usual car washes, ask car wash operators to wash your car thoroughly before foam application. Sometimes it’s logical to pay extra for this procedure.
Not accounted for by temperature differences
Direct sunlight is a known enemy of paintwork. However, it’s not even the warming up of the bodywork itself, e.g. in the blazing southern sun, but the sudden change in temperature when streams of cold water are poured over the almost literal red-hot bodywork. You may not notice the effects of such hardening immediately, they will manifest themselves later. Temperature changes cause imperceptible micro cracks to develop in the lacquer. Over time, these will allow moisture to seep through and cause corrosion.
To protect your bodywork from such unpleasant scenarios, splurge on an extra polish before the summer season. To prevent your car’s windows from cracking, use the air conditioning system to gradually cool the interior down just before washing in the heat. Alternatively, make sure that the car washers use lukewarm rather than cold water when washing the car. Similar precautions should be taken when washing very cold cars, e.g. cars that were outside in sub-zero temperatures during the winter.
However, good carwashes know: to spare a body and glasses of automobile, it should stand and get warm before washing for at least five, and better all for ten minutes. Even then, the car should be rinsed first with cold water and then the temperature should be increased as necessary.
Drying – not drying
Another common mistake that occurs in winter is the incomplete drying of numerous bodywork elements. What’s the first thing to look out for? It’s not uncommon for car wash operators to limit themselves to blowing out the locks with compressed air. But you should also make sure they rub the door seals dry (and not symbolically), and just as importantly, the fuel filler flap. Otherwise you risk either not getting into the car in freezing temperatures or being unable to unscrew the frozen petrol tank cap at the petrol station.
Also make sure the exterior mirror elements are blown out and the parking sensors are wiped down. Another tip is to “frost” the car after washing: open everything that opens, move the wiper blades away from the windscreen and let the car stand like that for about five minutes.
“Work on the door locks, bonnet, boot lid and fuel filler flap to make sure the gears and actuators are not frozen. If you park the car right after washing, take the time to “dry” the brake shoes by performing series of acceleration and braking. Once you have done this, the chances of the pads sticking to the discs or drums will be reduced to a minimum.
Careful of the underbody space
The desire to see a clean underhood is understandable and even commendable. However, if you entrust this area to professionals or take it to a self-service car wash, make sure you know if a high-pressure washer is used. Modern machines are packed with gauges and electronics.
Also, high pressure water can easily get into the holes in control units. Ruptured wiring, damaged radiators or even chipped paint are just a few of the hazards that can be caused by the improper use of washing machines.
Close contact with water
Watch the cleaners and in most cases you will see that they bring the “nozzle” of the “kerger” too close to the body. It’s understandable – it’s more effective at knocking down dirt, especially around the arches.
In the meantime, water flow pressure can reach 140 bar, which is a serious test for the paintwork. The surface protection layer vibrates and the paint becomes micro-cracked, which can become cloudy after a few years.
If your car is not new and the body is rusted, the blast from a “kerger” is doubly dangerous – it can chop off pieces of metal that it needs. Also, if handled carelessly, the washerman, or more likely you yourself, can damage the decorative plastic linings. In any case, it is advisable to hold the gun at least 25 cm away from the bodywork and not to wash off dirt at an angle of 90 degrees.
Every owner of a vehicle at least once in his life asked himself the question: “How to clean the car engine from oil, dirt and other deposits? Indeed, over time, a lot of these “by-products” are deposited on the surface of the engine body. In addition to the fact that this phenomenon is unpleasant from an aesthetic point of view – heavy contamination can disrupt the temperature operation of the engine.
Why do I have to wash the main parts of the car?
It is customary for every vehicle, just as it is for humans, to follow certain rules of “hygiene”. This is to ensure that the body of the vehicle is not subject to corrosion and is resistant to external influences. In addition, the power plant and gearbox dissipate heat not only through the coolant. The outer metal surfaces of their housings play an important role in this process. If they get covered with a layer of dirt and oil, thermal regulation can be impaired.
In addition to the power unit, the radiator, through which the coolant gives off its heat to the surrounding atmosphere, can be contaminated. Insects and dirt stuck on the cells complicate the heat transfer process.
It should not be forgotten that engine parts undergo wear and tear during operation. This means that metal particles get into the engine oil. Unfortunately, not all of them are removed by the oil filter. Some of the debris settles in the engine crankcase. The oil composition, circulating through the system, picks them up again and spreads them all over the engine’s lubrication system. Getting on the contact surfaces, the metal “dust” gradually destroys them. The consequences are obvious – it reduces the engine’s resource, disrupts its normal operation, and causes loss of power. That is why when changing oil at home motorists try to drain it out of the system completely. Some craftsmen manage to remove the most contaminated oil residues from the crankcase with a syringe and a tube afterwards.
Contamination of the under-hood and the engine may adversely affect the operation of the electronics and the ignition system. In addition, if the oil seal is leaking somewhere in the engine, this malfunction is difficult to detect because of the thick layer of dirt and oil deposits. You should also be aware that when the power unit is dirty, the risk of fire increases. Oil deposits can catch fire if the exhaust fumes break through. An accidental spark can also cause such fatal consequences. All of the above arguments lead to the obvious conclusion: periodically cleaning and flushing the main components of the car is as important as for its owner to take regular showers.
Another reason to wash the engine and the whole underhood space is selling the car. In this case, pre-sale preparation is an essential attribute that allows the buyer to assess all the advantages of the proposed vehicle.
Washing up products
Every car, like a woman, needs proper care. Most motorists know how to tidy up the interior of a car. However, not everyone knows how to clean the engine from oil and dirt deposits. To do this, it is not enough to take a container with warm water, a rag, a brush. In addition, you need at least special detergents. In the case of stale and thick deposits, such a set of tools is not enough.
To solve this problem, they often resort to the use of installations that deliver cleaning compounds under strong pressure, which in itself is not safe. The thing is that the strong jet may mechanically damage electrical wiring, gaskets and other elements. As a result – engine failure.
To clean the engine case from heavy dirt, many experienced drivers use diesel fuel or kerosene. It is better to wash with kerosene – there is less chance of fire. Keep in mind: if you use diesel or kerosene for washing, acrid smoke will be released from the surface of the engine body. This will happen after the engine has warmed up. Gasoline as a cleaning agent is unacceptable because of the high probability of ignition. In addition, gasoline fumes are explosive.
Some drivers try to adapt various household detergents for this purpose, and they sometimes succeed quite well. But, again, there can be unintended consequences. For example, when using compositions containing chemically active elements – alkalis or acids – parts made of plastic and rubber may get damaged. There is a possibility of oxidation of metal parts.
Today there are a sufficient number of products that allow you to properly rinse off the surface of the engine dirt and oil film, so it is best to use them. There are foreign and domestic compositions on the market – in the form of gel, foam, liquid or aerosol. Each of them has its own rules of application, described by the manufacturer.
How to wash the engine and underhood properly
Before you start cleaning the engine and surrounding components – from dust, oil and dirt, you need to follow a few simple rules, and the very cleaning and washing should be performed in a certain sequence.
To begin with it is necessary to prepare a few improvised means: rubber gloves, polyethylene and foil, tape or duct tape, a rag, a brush (only not made of metal), a sponge. A detergent also needs to be purchased.
It is better to clean the engine in warm, dry weather, so the excess moisture will evaporate faster after washing from under the hood.
Before you wash the power unit, you need to let it cool down to an acceptable temperature – from 50 to 60 ° C. If the engine was cold – then you need to warm it up to the same temperature.
It is necessary to remove the terminals from the battery, after that it is advisable to remove it from under the hood.
Parts such as the tumbler, ignition coil, air filter, terminals and other components of electrical connections, depending on the model and design of the engine, must be protected from moisture. This is done with polyethylene, foil, tape or duct tape.
It is required to moisten all dirty surfaces with a small amount of water. After that, a cleaning compound is applied. If it is an aerosol – it is simply sprayed on all surfaces that need cleaning. If it is a prepared solution – you can spray it with a spray gun or apply it with a sponge. In hard-to-reach places, it is better to use a small brush, such as a toothbrush.
After that, you need to wait a while until the cleaner comes into contact with the dirt. The time interval is usually specified in the instructions for use of the detergent.
Finally, it is required to wash the entire underhood space, where the cleaning composition was applied. This should be done with extreme care, avoiding water to the places of electrical connections and others described above, even if they are protected with polyethylene or foil. A hose with a good stream of water is often used for this procedure. The end of the hose can be pinched with your fingers to create more pressure.
After rinsing, the quality of the cleaning is checked. If some dirt is left somewhere, the procedure can be repeated again.
Well, your favorite “iron horse” became clean and tidy. True, it is impossible to start the engine and drive the car. The under-hood space needs drying. To do this, you need to lift the hood and dry the surfaces of parts under it with paper towels. You need to be especially careful to remove moisture in the area of elements protected with polyethylene or foil. Only after that you can remove the protective equipment.
Flushing the lubrication system
It’s not just the engine housing and surrounding parts that need cleaning. Systems such as the cooling and lubrication systems also require periodic cleaning. This procedure must be carried out when the car owner has decided to use a new engine oil from a different manufacturer. Or the manufacturer is the same, but the viscosity and quality parameters are already different. In addition, over time in the oil system there are still products of oxidation, wear of parts, fouling. There are two ways to flush the oil system.
The car is installed on a pit or a trestle. After that the old engine oil is drained through the drain plug. The so called flushing compound is poured into the throat. With it the engine should run for some time, specified in the instructions of the manufacturer of flushing oil. After that the flushing oil is also removed from the system.
The old grease is not removed. It is filled with special detergent additives to clean the power plant. After that, the engine runs, as a rule, for a few minutes. More precise time is specified in the additive instructions. After stopping, the old oil is removed from the engine.
It is worth noting that the method of cleaning with flushing oil is softer and gentler for the power unit. The second one is tougher because of the strong aggressiveness of most additives. In any case, after flushing, you should immediately pour a new lubricant and replace the oil filter.
Cleaning the cooling system
Over the course of operation, scale and salt deposits appear in the channels of the cooling system. This process is inevitable, as the antifreeze is constantly under stress due to sudden changes in temperature. Therefore, a periodic flushing of the cooling system is a necessary procedure. You can perform this work as follows:
the used antifreeze is drained from the system;
a mixture of distilled water and a small amount of vinegar is prepared in the required quantity;
After that the engine runs for a certain time and then the flushing solution is drained out;
Accidents happen. Whether it’s oil left over from a guest’s leaking car, grease from a broken truck, or vegetable oil from the last backyard barbecue, it’s likely that someday you will run into an unwanted stain on the paving stones in your courtyard or driveway.
In most cases, you will be able to remove the stain with products that you have in your home or that can be easily purchased from your nearest home renovation center. When that is not the case, you can always professionally clean the driveway, or you can simply replace the stained paving stones and return the driveway or patio to a new look almost immediately.
Here’s a step-by-step guide to help you remove grease and oil stains from paving stones:
Step 1: If the stain is fresh and there is still liquid on the surface, dampen as much oil or grease as possible with a rag or paper towels.
Step 2: If there is still a significant amount of oil or grease on your paving stones, apply regular cat litter to the stain and gently push it into the stain. Do not use a wire brush for this, as it may scratch the paving stones. Allow the litter to absorb the liquid, then remove the litter by sweeping and discarding.
Step 3: Scrub the area using dish soap, water, and a dishwashing brush or deck brush (avoid wire bristles). It is always best to use natural products whenever possible, but you may find that dish soap known for its cutting oil and grease like Dawn will give a more satisfying result. Alternatively, you can also use baking soda instead of dish soap, especially for small stains.
Step 4: Spray the area with a garden hose with a nozzle. This will allow you to use a higher pressure direct spray to clean the area. A pressure washer can be used, which can help to better remove grease or oil stain, but surfaces such as concrete, bricks or paving stones can be easily damaged when using a pressure washer.
Hopefully these four steps will help you remove grease or oil stains from your paving stones. However, if these methods are not enough to remove stains, there are other options. For example, you can try using an oven cleaner by spraying it liberally over the stain, letting it sit for 15-20 minutes, and then rinsing it. However, keep in mind that oven cleaner contains chemicals that are not breathable and not suitable for flushing storm drains, lawns or flower beds.
For particularly stubborn stains, you may need to go to a hardware store and purchase a degreaser specially formulated to remove stains from the driveway. If you need to go this route, follow the directions on the product for the best results.
Alternatively, you can professionally clean your driveway. Just be sure to use a contractor who is familiar with paving stone cleaning and knows that extreme care must be taken when using a pressure washer and wire brushes must not be used.
If all else fails, you can always replace the soiled paving stones. This is one of the advantages of choosing ‘paving stones instead of stamped concrete or slab concrete. If concrete driveways or terraces are damaged or have stains that cannot be removed, you will have to cut and replace the entire section or slab. And even after this costly renovation, the new section will be clearly visible, since it is almost impossible to get new concrete that matches the old concrete. However, with a paved path or patio, you can easily replace one or more paving stones without anyone even noticing. Or contact our company and our specialists will remove all the dirt from the patio at a low price
I was faced with the need to clean the roof. I have shingles, installed relatively recently, but in some places, for some reason, moss and lichen have already appeared. This is very unpleasant, because the house looks kind of abandoned. Can a soft roof be washed with a pressure washer like a compact car wash? I was told that the pressure washer will damage the soft roof. Are there any other options for cleaning the roof? And after the roof is cleaned, is there any way to prevent the appearance of moss and other unnecessary things?
John Lansky asks us, Louisiana
I would argue that the north, northwest and possibly west sides of your roof look bad, while the rest of the parts look like new. Moreover, I will assume that the worst parts of the roof look, on which the most shadow from the trees falls. I know this because I myself have exactly the same problem as you. Some parts of my rooftop look like the Amazon rainforest. The wind carries moss and lichen spores to the roof, they can also fall from trees or birds can bring them. With abundant rainwater, these spores begin to grow. Since the northern, north-western and western parts of your roof remain in the shade in the morning, the dew that appears on the roof at night does not have time to quickly evaporate. This morning moisture just quenches the thirst of the microscopic botanical garden on the surface of your soft roof. Other parts of the roof dry out quickly and the moss and lichen die of thirst.
I have also heard many times that a pressure washer can damage a soft roof. I know for sure that such sinks can partially destroy concrete. It is a fact. Therefore, it seems logical that the pressure washer can seriously damage the soft roof on the roof. But since I know how easily and quickly it is possible to replace one or several tiles of a soft roof, I decided on an experiment. Moreover, my soft roof is already twenty years old and it is living out its own. I also decided to test a few new soft roof tiles to see if the pressure washer will wash the colored granules off the surface of the material.
The experiment began with the fact that I took a powerful pressure washer with a gasoline engine. This sink is capable of delivering water at a pressure of 150 kg per square centimeter, using 9.6 liters of water per minute. For the spray nozzle, I used a 25-degree nozzle, which is used for general purpose cleaning.
The results of this experiment were amazing. With this pressure washer, I was able to wash all the moss, lichen and twenty years of dirt off my roof. The bituminous shingles did not receive any damage.
At first, I held the spray gun at a distance of 30 centimeters from the surface of the soft tiles, aiming it at the bottom of the roof. There was no tangible result. But as soon as I slowly brought the sprayer to the roof surface at a distance of 15 centimeters, the dirt and vegetation began to wash away. I recommend gently cleaning one tile at a time and then stopping and checking the tile for damage. Move to another part of the roof where the soft roof looks good to make sure that the freshly washed soft roof looks the same. Rest assured that during the cleaning process you can easily spot any damage. If you see small or large black spots or pieces of fiberglass, stop. You are destroying the roof.
You can also use a regular garden hose and brush to clean the soft roof. True, this will already be a titanic work. Always point the hose or pressure washer spray at the bottom of the roof. Never direct the water flow upwards, as it can penetrate under the soft roof and multiple leaks into the house are likely.
If you install copper strips on the top of the roof, then after you clean the soft roof, it will look like new for a long time. To do this, you need to install copper strips 5 – 7 centimeters wide along the ridge. Now you can buy a soft roof, which has already been coated with an invisible copper layer. Then you don’t have to do any of the above to get rid of the moss and lichen. The slow release of copper on the roof surface prevents the growth of moss, lichen and any other plant microorganisms.
Be extremely careful on the roof when dealing with water. If you wet the roof on which there is moss, lichen, dirt, then it becomes slippery, as if oil was spilled on it. Always try to work on the dry part of the roof. Move from the ridge to the eaves within one vertical line, about 50 centimeters wide. Do not forget that somewhere nearby there will always be a hose on which you can also slip. Use a belay to keep from falling off the roof even if you slip.
When you are three meters from the edge of the roof, stop working and stop. Let the freshly washed roof area dry. When the roof is dry, turn around and continue washing the roof so that you move with your face towards the edge of the roof, not with your back, so that you eventually fall